Tips for Traveling to Morocco

We have just returned from a magical trip to Morocco. This was primarily a work trip spent mostly in Marrakech, with a few days at the Agafay desert and at Ouilidia on the coast. We loved it so much that we are already scheming how we can return, with hopes to travel in the future to the blue city of Chefchaouen and to Tangier, just miles from the Spanish coast. If you are considering a trip to Morocco, I would highly encourage you to go. Because Morocco sits at the crossroads of Africa, Europe, and the Middle East, it is a unique and vibrant country unlike any we have visited to date. It seems to have adopted the best features of all these influences, with gorgeous architectural details, beautiful and diverse people, unbelievable food, and a remarkable mix of languages, all while maintaining a deep sense of kindness and hospitality. I felt completely safe there, and we found the people to be especially warm and welcoming.

Bahia Palace

The Agafay Desert

La Sultana, Ouilida

Here are a few tips to make the most of your trip to Morocco:

MONEY -
Morocco is a country that works on cash. While you can pay with credit cards for your lodging and most restaurant meals, everything else you purchase will need to be paid for in cash, including cab fees, entry to historical sites, and all those lovely purchases in the souks. Gratuity cannot be added by credit card to your dining tab, so be sure to carry cash to meals for tipping your servers. You will also want to tip everyone from your tour guide to the individuals who tend the bathroom stalls, so be sure to have plenty of Moroccan cash in hand.

As you cannot get Moroccan money outside of the country, and most exchange vendors do not take credit cards, it is highly recommended that you bring American cash with you. One of the individuals travelling in our party could not exchange money with a credit card until the fourth day of our trip, when we found an open bank. The lesson learned is to not rely on your credit cards. Bring American cash or even Euros to exchange. I also encourage you to exchange at least a few hundred dollars at the kiosks before you leave the airport. The exchange rate isn't optimal (but it's not terrible, either), and you will need cash the minute you walk out the airport doors. When exchanging money, you can ask for small bills (petit billet), but they likely won't have them available. Given this, once you have Moroccan money in hand, I recommend heading to a vendor in the airport to buy some water. This way, you will have both much needed hydration and a little bit of change as you venture out.

El Badi Palace

To give you a sense of appropriate tipping, shoot for 10 to 15%. I asked our local friends, and they all felt this was an appropriate amount. Here is a handy reference guide for tipping to get you started:

WHEN IN MARRAKECH, STAY IN THE MEDINA -
Marrakech is built around a large, central Medina, with the souks and many wonderful restaurants, historical sites, and lovely riads (multi-family homes that have been converted into small hotels) located at its heart. Outside of the Medina lie the suburbs, airport, and larger businesses. Staying the Medina will minimize your travel time each day and allow you to simply walk outside your door to be fully immersed in Moroccan culture. You can find lovely lodging at any price point. We strongly recommend La Sultana, www.lasultanahotels.com/marrakech.

We also loved Le Jardin Secret, www.riadjardinsecret.com.

GETTING LOST -
You WILL get lost in the Medina. You will. It's unavoidable. When you do, don't panic. Be sure to write down the name of your hotel, have their phone number in hand, and use your phone navigation to help guide you. Drop at pin at your hotel and wind your way back, or hop in a cab and ask to be taken back to your hotel, or if you are truly lost, call your hotel concierge and ask for help. As standing on a street corner looking at a map is a surefire way to gain unwanted attention, I recommend having a cup of tea at restaurant to re-group instead. Your server may be able to help you navigate home. If someone on the street offers to guide you, they will likely take you on a more circuitous route and will charge you for this service. Given this, asking for directions from unknown persons is not recommended. Rely on your technology, act like you know where you are going, and you will be fine. 

Jemaaa-El-Fna Square

TAKING A CAB -
We found cabs to be an easy, safe, and economical way to navigate Marrakech. You will do a ton of walking and there are many places at the center of the Medina that can only be reached on foot. However, cabs can often get you closer to your destination for a small fee (generally about $5). This is particularly helpful at night or at the end of a long, hot day. As with most things, cab fees are negotiable. I recommend asking the concierge at your hotel or riad what a reasonable cab fee would be to your desired location. Once you find a cab, ask them their price BEFORE you get in, and negotiate down to your desired fee. We chose to tip approximately 10% on top of this price. This will all be done in cash, of course, and don't expect change to be given. 

FOOD -
The food in Morocco is amazing. We found eating plant-centered to be easy, and there were healthy and delicious vegetarian items on every menu we encountered. Moroccan food is filled with fabulous spices, aromatic herbs, fresh veggies, olives, dried fruit, and other nutrient-dense plant-based ingredients like lentils, quinoa, and hummus. We ate many delicious vegetable tajines, couscous topped with veggies and caramelized onions, and we particularly loved the assortment of Moroccan salads. These would come in variety of small bowls filled with spiced carrots, eggplant, fennel, tomatoes, and other beautifully prepared vegetable, fruit, and legume combinations.

Our favorite restaurants were:
La Famille (vegetarian and scrumptious) www.lafamillemarrakech.com
L’Mida www.lmidamarrakech.com/en/
Le Jardin www.lejardinmarrakech.com
La Maison Arab www.cenizaro.com/lamaisonarabe/marrakech
La Table de la Kasbah www.instagram.com/latabledelakasbah/?hl=en

FRENCH -
In Morocco, Arabic and French are the primary languages. French is taught in school and is spoken widely. Conversation is often a mix of Arabic and French, and sentences often contain a blending of both languages. Although English is spoken by many young people, who typically learn it through Tik Tok and American movies, don't expect it to be widely used by anyone over 25. You will likely get by okay in English when speaking with individuals in the tourist sector, such as when checking into your hotel and when ordering meals in restaurants, but you will get much farther with a little French. My hub does not speak French, so I did most of the talking while we were there, and translation was often required. Given this, I'd definitely acquire at least some basic French phrases before travelling. I found this video to be helpful: www.youtube.com/watch?v=gR_cQT7mt9M

People in Morocco like to chat, and they are appreciative of any attempt at speaking French. I spoke more French here than on several past trips to France and Belgium. Unlike in France, grammatical errors are accepted with warmth and humor, and people are kind about even bumbling efforts to speak in something other than English. While I spoke mostly in French, we also used simple Arabic phrases, such as Salaam (hello) and Shukran (thank you). Do a little language homework before you go, and you will feel so much more comfortable.

WHAT TO WEAR -
Morocco is a Muslim country, so modest clothing is worn by most people. It is also seriously hot. We were there in mid- to late-October, and temperatures were well above 95 degrees for most of our trip and into the 100s when were in the Agafay desert. Given this, finding a mix of modesty, sun coverage, and breathable fabric was our goal.  

For women, I found that I felt most comfortable in lightweight maxi skirts, thin palazzo and capri pants, long-sleeved or elbow length shirts, and long flowy dresses. I always carried a thin scarf for wrapping around my shoulders or covering any cleavage. When in pants, I felt most comfortable with tunic shirts that covered my behind. My sleeveless shirts, heavier maxi skirts, and jeans remained in my suitcase, as they either felt disrespectful or were simply too heavy for the heat.

For men, shorts are rarely worn. The hub felt most comfortable in linen pants and light-weight shirts. Short sleeves are totally fine, but long-sleeves will give you better sun coverage. He suggests you bring both. Don't forget a packable sun hat and an extra layer for the evening. 

As a side note, the streets of the souks are dirty and often soaked with mud and water. If you wear long flowy pants or skirts, make sure that you can either roll them up or tie them at the knee so that they don't drag on the ground. Because many restaurants are on the rooftops, you will also be climbing a lot of stairs. Given this, flowy palazzo pants that I could knot at the knee were my favorite clothing item. They afforded maximum comfort and modesty without getting in my way. For shoes, I mostly wore my comfortable sandals or light-weight tennis shoes. I recommend avoiding flashy jewelry. The only time I felt at risk was when someone tried to remove a simple silver bracelet from my wrist. Next time, I will leave even that at home. 

While violent crime is very rare, pick-pocketing is not uncommon in the souks. Before going, I invested in a small travel satchel with slash-proof lining and a wire-reinforced strap. It had the added benefit of side pockets which open for water bottle storage. Although it wasn't the most fashionable item, I loved the added security, the thoughtfully designed storage, and the easy water access. www.travelonbags.com/shop-the-look/messengers/best-sellers/anti-theft-classic-messenger/42242.html 

JET LAG -

I suffer from terrible jet lag. This trip was no exception. I simply could not sleep at night, no matter how tired my body was. On the third day, I realized that the beautiful mint tea that is served everywhere has a base of green tea and contains a heavy dose of caffeine. Learn from my experience and graciously decline the tea if you also suffer from jet lag.  

AVOIDING HEALTH ISSUES -
Food poisoning is very common in Morocco, and many travelers report stomach issues. We stayed well the entire time by simply following a few basic guidelines:

  • Don't drink the water from the tap and always use bottled water to brush your teeth. Bottled water is inexpensive and widely available.

  • Don't eat from the street vendors. While we did purchase cured olives, jarred harissa paste, and baked Moroccan sweets in the markets, we avoided eating other dishes from the street stalls. We preferred to eat our meals in restaurants where the food was prepared hot to order.

  • Carry hand-sanitizer and a packet of tissues. Most bathrooms have running water, soap, and TP, but not all. I relied on these items on multiple occasions.

  • No one masks in Morocco, not even in the airports or in cabs. Given the country's low Covid case counts and our fully vaccinated status, we followed suit and hoped for the best. While we felt comfortable being unmasked, this is something to be aware of if you are immune-compromised or at high risk.

  • It is very hot and it’s easy to get dehydrated. On our first day in the desert, I came precariously close to heat stroke. Learn from my mistake. Drink a ton (like this amazing rose lemonade), and get thee to shade if you start to feel unwell.

 BARGAINING -

Very little pricing is set in stone in Morocco, and bargaining is both expected and encouraged. This is true anytime you are making a purchase, even when the sign listed says "prix fixe."  Here are my tips for bargaining:

  • Greetings first. Don't forget to politely say hello. A simple, "Bonjour, monsieur. Ça va?"  Goes a long way in smoothing negotiations. Cheerfulness and respect will greatly improve any exchange in Morocco (and really anywhere else, for that matter).

  • Ask for the price, and then offer 30-50% of the suggested value. Expect to come to the middle of the price range somewhere. If you aren't happy with the price that is being offered, be prepared to politely walk away. Say you will think about it and return later. Very often, being willing to walk away will gain you a better price point. 

  • Bundle items for a better value. You will get a better price per item if you purchase multiple items at once.

  • Make sure to thank the vendor and wish them a good day. Too often Americans think the exchange is over when money has changed hands. However, the purchase does not end until you have commented on their lovely wears, wished them a happy day, and thanked them for a nice shopping experience. With such simple pleasantries, you may find yourself being invited for tea, offered a cookie, or simply encouraged to sit for a moment out of the blinding heat. Moroccan hospitality is legendary, but you may only see it if you are willing to extend extra warmth and graciousness yourself.

  • If you are uninterested in buying, don't make eye contact with the vendor or fondle their wares. Once you show interest, the vendors will do everything in their power to encourage a sale, and they are experts at their jobs. I never felt harassed, though, and I found that a simple, “Non, merci,” said with a smile was all that was needed.

HAMMAM -
Make sure to have a Hammam, a traditional Moroccan scrub, before you leave. I won’t give all the secrets away, but ours involved being lathered with black soap, scrubbed with a sandpaper glove until our skin was baby-soft, smeared alternately with mud and argan oil, and massaged to within an inch our lives, all while wearing only a teeny paper thong and a smile. It was divine. I felt like a sparkly fresh noodle when I was done.

SLOW DOWN AND RELAX -

Morocco may seem frenetic, with its crazy traffic, tiny roads packed with motor bikes and donkey carts, and people and products everywhere, but the pace is actually quite laid-back and relaxed. Meals are lengthy, generous, and meant to be savored and enjoyed. Things are not done in frenzied manner or on a strict schedule. Hospitality is highly valued, as are good manners, cheerfulness, and gratitude. I encourage you to follow suit. Have a leisurely breakfast of excellent coffee, French pastries, and the best orange juice you will ever taste. Expect to spend several hours at dinner sharing dishes communally. Take time to ask people about their children, to talk with vendors when making purchases, and to hear people's stories. Smile a lot. In Morocco, any emotion given will be returned back to you. We found that with a friendly demeanor, gratitude, and a good dose of appreciation and wonder, that we felt completely welcomed. It was one of the warmest countries we have ever experienced, and we can't wait to go back.

Happy Travels to you! 🌱💕

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